Stairway to Heaven Hike in Hawaii: The Haiku Stairs in 2024

While it is illegal to hike the official Stairway to Heaven on Oahu, there is a backdoor to the hike– a legal way to reach the summit of the mountain. 

It’s called the Moanalua Valley Trail. 

This trail is completely legal, and ends at the final section of the Haiku stairs.

I should note: advocates for saving the Haiku Stairs don’t call the mountain trail “the legal way.” They believe mountain trails shouldn’t be legal or illegal. It’s public land.

They also say the Moanalua Valley trail is more dangerous, and leads to more hiker rescues.

Hiking the Moanalua Valley Trail route is much longer, but it’s a beautiful hike! Plus, it comes without the risk of fines.

The Moanalua/Kamanar Valley Trail is a 9.2-mile out-and-back trail that starts on the opposite side of Moanalua Valley. It is a steep and semi-maintained trail following the ridge line through the Honolulu Forest Reserve.

This trail leads to the same iconic views of Oahu, and you can still take a picture on the upper section of the Haiku Stairs!

The legal Stairway to Heaven trail starts in the parking lot of Moanalua Valley Neighborhood Park (photo below). This route is relatively flat for a few miles before gaining nearly 3,000 feet to the peak, the top of the Haiku Stairs, and the view of the Pacific Ocean. 

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Note: Though well-maintained, getting lost on this hike is not uncommon, especially in the first quarter of the hike. The cell service is spotty, so make sure to open the trail map on AllTrails before you lose service. You can also access this map offline, if you download it with AllTrails+.  

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The Moanalua Valley Trail will lead you through diverse terrain, from a creek bed up through a steep, muddy hillside, and through rainforest-like tree canopies. The hike is strenuous, but you’ll be rewarded with unforgettable views of Oahu’s rugged mountains and Kaneohe Bay from the summit.

While the trail is easy to follow at first, you’ll need to pay attention to a sign which says “Kulana’ Ahane.”

From the red sign below, you need to cross the creek bed to the trail that eventually leads you up to the ridge:

Look for a tree branch over the trail has the words “Middle Ridge” carved into it. After this, the trail becomes much easier to follow.

The trail is known for being muddy, so it’s a good idea to wear shoes with spikes. Wearing spikes also helps with the final stretch of the Moanalua Trail, which requires scrambling up a narrow crevasse. 

Depending on your fitness level, the legal hike to the top of the Stairway to Heaven in Hawaii can take anywhere from 5-10 hours to complete. 

If you’re an experienced hiker, and don’t stop for many breaks, you can finish the hike in as few as five hours.

Still, it’s better to budget 7-10 hours to truly enjoy the journey, and spend time at the top admiring the view! 

There is plenty of daylight to complete the hike in the summer, but the winter months are a little more time-sensitive. 

If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii between November – March, daylight can be as short as 10 hours each day. Make sure to leave yourself enough time to get back down the mountain before dusk. 

Do not underestimate this hike. 

While the illegal Haiku Stairs hike is known to be strenuous, the legal route to the top via the Moanalua Valley Trail is much longer, and even more challenging. 

The Stairway of Heaven (via Moanalua Valley) starts easy, through a flat creek bed. Soon after, the trail begins climbing quickly in elevation.

You’ll gain more than 2000 feet in elevation, during the final 1.6 miles of the hike. Pair this with a frequently muddy trail, steep drop-offs, and some rock scrambling, and you can bet: your heart will be pounding by the end!

From the top of the Stairway to Heaven, you can see incredible 360º views of the surrounding valleys, mountains, and deep blue Pacific Ocean.

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A couple of tips are essential for hiking the (legal) Stairway to Heaven; 

Check The Weather – The weather is usually pretty good in Oahu, but a storm or intense fog will prevent you from the best views at the top of the Stairway to Heaven. It also makes the already difficult hike slippery, and dramatically increases your risk of injury.  Also, remember: the skies in Waikiki can be clear and blue, while storm clouds rain over the trail.

Wear Proper Footwear – It is important to wear sturdy shoes with good grip. If you decide to go through the Moanalua Valley Trail, there will be no ‘proper stairs.’ Again, I’d suggest putting spikes on your shoes for extra traction in the steep, muddy parts of the trail.

Bring More Water Than You Think You’ll Drink – This hike is challenging, and often takes people longer than expected. Make sure you have enough water for everyone in your group. I’d recommend four liters each!

Don’t Hike Alone – This is good advice anywhere, but particularly for hiking to the Stairway to Heaven, since cell service is spotty at best.

Start Early – The hike can take up to 10 hours. Especially during winter, starting as close to sunrise as possible ensures you can get back to your car before dark. Starting at dawn will also ensure you’ll get a parking spot at the trailhead. The parking spaces fill quickly, and then it’s a matter of driving around the neighborhood looking for a legal spot to park.

Protect the Environment – Do your best to stay on the trail to help preserve the surrounding environment.

Fortunately, according to Friends of Haiku Stairs, there have been no deaths due to falls reported on the trail.

However, slips and falls are common due to the trail’s strenuous terrain.

The most well-known death on the Haiku Stairs involved singer Fritz Hasenpusch in 2012. His friends say he died of a heart attack while attempting the hike, not from an injury or fall on the trail.

During heated council meetings about the future of the Stairway to Heaven, advocates for saving the stairs have demanded to know how many lawsuits have been filed over accidents. The answer is: Zero. For the advocates, this proves that liability is not an issue.

According to data released by HFD to KHON News, the number of hiker rescues on Moanalua peaked in 2019, with 17 for the year.

In the last decade, HFD has responded to more than 100 rescues on the trail.

More generally speaking across the Honolulu Fire Department’s large jurisdiction, hiker rescues are on the rise.

They responded to a little over 200 rescues in 2022. By the end of 2023 the number of hiker rescues was approaching 300.

In the fall of 2023, rescue crews were challenged with a unique call from a woman hiking illegally on the Haiku Stairs with her dog.

Somehow, the dog fell 50 feet off the stairs. The woman got down to the dog, got a cell signal to call for help, and waited for rescue crews. Local reports say it took a crew of 13, both on the ground and in a helicopter above, to get them out to safety.

Neither was injured, and it’s unclear if she was fined.

The State of Hawaii made it a criminal offense to climb the Haiku Stairs trail, citing safety and preservation. The area around the Haiku Stairs consists of steep hills, loose rocks, and slippery terrain, making it difficult to navigate. 

The City of Honolulu is also concerned about lawsuits resulting from injury or death on public land. However, according to the Friends of Haiku Stairs, zero claims have been against the city from hikers in 80 years.

Who’s Making Decisions About the Haiku Stairs?

The Stairway to Heaven used to be under the jurisdiction of the Board of Water Supply. 

The responsibility was transferred to the City of Honolulu in 2020, specifically to the Hawaiian Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR).

The DLNR manages and preserves Hawaii’s public lands, national parks, recreation areas, and historical sites. They are also responsible for issuing permits on protected land across the island chain. 

This photo shows people at the top of the Haiku Stairs, who got there legally going up the longer trail:

The State of Hawaii placed severe consequences for those caught attempting to hike the Haiku Stairs, though enforcement is inconsistent.

The State of Hawaii spends approximately $250,000 annually to hire and maintain security guards to patrol the Haiku Stairs. These security guards work around the clock and turn away thousands of hikers every year. The primary purpose of this measure is to protect both the government from liability and the trail itself from any damage. 

In addition, the State of Hawaii has placed “No Trespassing” signs and warning notices at various points on the Haiku Stairs to remind visitors that attempting to hike the trail is a criminal offense.

There is no clear evidence that the government uses helicopters to patrol the Haiku Stairs to catch people trespassing. 

We got nervous while we were taking photos at the top of the stairs when a helicopter appeared above. It turned out to be firefighters, either scouting or training.

Plus, there are a number of Helicopter Tours that fly over the area. It’s a good option if a 10-hour hike isn’t for you!

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The Stairway to Heaven in Hawaii is a coveted hike for adventure travelers on Oahu. The staircase also has a fascinating history. The steps have their roots in U.S. Naval efforts during World War II. 

Why the Stairway to Heaven was Built During WW II

The Stairway to Heaven was initially built for the Navy, after the attack on Pearl Harbor, as an access point for a top-secret radio station. The plan was to use its signal to communicate with ships across the Pacific Ocean. 
It was groundbreaking technology at the time, with the capability of sending radio signals to Tokyo Bay.

The stairway was completed in 1942, after just a few months of construction! Crews compiled the series of ladders, rails, and steps, some of which were carved into the cliffs.

In all, there are 3,922 steps to the top of the Stairway to Heaven.

In the 1950s, the wooden steps were replaced with metal steps. Satellite communications developed, and the radio tower was no longer needed. The antenna and cables were disassembled, but the stairs remained, and became a popular hiking destination for locals.

Today, the Stairway to Heaven is a reminder of the U.S. Navy’s critical role in World War II. History buffs and veterans are among those hoping to preserve them.

In 1987, the Stairway to Heaven was closed by the State of Hawaii due to safety concerns and the liability risk for the government. 

Until this time, people were able to sign liability waivers and hike the steps.

Despite closing the Haiku Stairs to the public, the government has maintained the steps over the years. Crews even rebuilt a large section after it was damaged in a 2002 landslide.

You should definitely check the weather forecast before attempting the hike to the Stairway of Heaven or any of Hawaii’s trails.

Travelers can count on pleasant temperatures all year (between 70-90º). Rainfall is the game-changer, which can make for an amazing hike or a treacherous muddy mess. It’s typical to see rain throughout the year, and the weather in Waikiki might be very different from the upper elevations along the trail. 

A couple of rainy days in a row causes the trail to become really muddy and slippery. The best advice is to let it dry out for a couple of days before attempting the hike. Granted, if you’re a tourist, your time is limited, and I’m sure I’d be tempted to hike it even in the rain!

The other thing you have to watch out for is fog. It can settle at the top of the Haiku Stairs and reduce visibility to less than 50 feet.  Luckily, the trail at the top is clearly marked, so you won’t get lost at that point.

The Stairway to Heaven (the legal way) is one of my all-time favorite hikes. It’s a full day adventure, so be prepared!

I’m used to hiking in the Arizona desert, so climbing up through the lush vegetation is a treat in itself! Add to that the views of the bright blue ocean, and learning about the history of the steps themselves.

The Haiku Stairs have powerful people on their side. Time will tell if the steps will be saved, demolished, or even possibly moved to a different location and preserved in a new way.

In the meantime, I can’t wait. to get back to Oahu in 2024 to hike to the peak again!