Hike Pico Grande: One of Madeira’s Highest Peaks on the PR12 Trail
Hiking Pico Grande will be one of your favorite memories from your visit to Madeira. People disappointed by the closure of the famous “Stairway to Heaven” should consider Pico Grande as an excellent alternative for a number of reasons:
- You’ll be above the clouds and in awe of the panoramic views.
- It’s lesser known, and MUCH less crowded.
- There’s a great Madeira history lesson surrounding this ancient royal footpath.
You might come across misleading signs online about Pico Grande being closed, but it’s definitely open! The closure from a while back was lifted.
Key Info on Madeira’s Pico Grande
- It’s 7 miles round-trip.
- The hike takes roughly 5 hours.
- The elevation gain is 2,000 to 3,300 feet, depending on the trailhead.
- It’s rated moderate to strenuous, for its final steep, rocky ascent.
- You’ll follow an old royal footpath between villages.
The 3 Sites I Use for Every Trip
– For tours: Viator
-For travel insurance: Travel Guard
– For rental cars: Discover Cars
Gear to Bring to Hike Pico Grande
This hike is likely to take up the bulk of your day, between the drive and the hike itself. Make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks on the hike, and leave in the car for your return.
In terms of gear, I’d bring
- A hydration backpack, like a Camelbak
- Good hiking shoes
- A light layer that’s water-resistant
- Gloves (it gets cold in the winter and spring!)
I’d also download the trail map on AllTrails so you can follow along. It saved us after we made a wrong turn.
Getting to Pico Grande
Pico Grande is up in the mountains of Madeira, northwest of Funchal. It’s about a 25-minute drive to the Boca da Corrida Trailhead from the center part of the city. Renting a car and driving on Madeira is really the best way to go!
Rent a Car
On Madeira, and across much of Europe, I’ve had great success over the years renting cars from DiscoverCars.com.
Their search feature includes big international brands, in addition to local rental companies.
The Best Trailhead: Boca da Corrida (Madeira’s PR12)
You can start your hike in a few spots, including:
- Encumeada Pass
- Curral das Freiras (Nuns Valley)
I’d recommend the Boca da Corrida Trailhead, which will take you up steep switchbacks, through forests, and along exposed ridges as you climb to Pico Grande.
For directions, type this into your GPS:
- PR12 Caminho Real da Encumeada
- or Boca da Corrida
They both lead to the same spot.
PR12 Trailhead Parking
You’ll find a small parking lot, which has room for 10(ish) cars, depending on how people park.
Additional roadside parking is available. It’s a rural area, so the parking rules are lax.
Hiking Fee
There’s a 3 Euro fee to hike, which you can pay beforehand. Or you can scan the QR code on the sign at the trailhead.
The Hike to Pico Grande on PR12
The PR12 trail runs along Madeira’s mountainsides, offering sweeping views over the rugged interior of the island.
The path is well-maintained and marked. It’s not dangerous, but the hike is strenuous in parts. The trail hugs the ridgelines, which have dramatic dropoffs.
Trail Highlights
Much of the year, the pathways are lined with lush forests and wildflowers.
Several sections are recovering from a wildfire a few years ago. The charred trees mix with vegetation and regrowth.
The trail is well-marked, and will be a mix of stone and dirt. It’s not very steep (until the final mile). In a few spots, you’ll have steps and cables to help you up.
At the Fork
You can choose an easier, beautiful path downhill, or climb up toward the peak.
Based on my experience and several other reports, the sign for Pico Grande might be down or non-existent at all.
From the turnoff, it’s another 1.1 miles to the peak.
The Final Climb
The final 2,000 steps, or 0.9 mile are a bit hellish, especially if you’re tired!
You’ll climb up a series of steep, rocky switchbacks. I hike a lot of rocky switchback-filled trails in Arizona, but this one seemed to go on forever!
These photos show: it’s pretty desolate up there, but the view across the valley will be worth it!
Eventually, you’ll get to the peak, and use ropes to help make the final ascent.
You’ll have 360-degree panoramic views from the peak. The fog and clouds move in and out all day, so it’s worth relaxing on the peak and watching the changes.
This is a photo from the actual peak itself:
Historic Markers
Aside from the views, my favorite parts of the hike to Pico Grande are the stone pavers, steps, and bridges which have survived for centuries. You can see the ancient stonework on this part of the trail.
Video: Hiking Pico Grande on Madeira
The Weather at Pico Grande / Central Madeira
If you’ve been, you already know that weather conditions in the central highlands of Madeira can change rapidly. You’re likely to find at least part of the PR12 trail shrouded in fog or clouds, even if the last town you visited was sunny.
- Clouds & Mist: Even on sunny days, clouds can roll in quickly and reduce visibility.
- Wind: The summit and ridgelines can be very windy, so bring layers.
- Temperature: It’s usually cooler than the coast, especially in the early morning or late afternoon.
I found the staff at hotels are really good at predicting weather conditions, rather than the apps on your phone!
The Best Time to Hike Pico Grande & PR12
You’ll have the most stable weather conditions to hike Pico Grande from spring to early autumn (May through October).
Mornings are typically clearest, year-round.
It’s common for clouds and fog to roll in by the afternoon. If you’re looking for the best visibility, start your Pico Grande hike early.
We foolishly decided to wait to fly our drone at one beautiful overlook until our hike down. We arrived too late in the afternoon. The clouds had already settled in.
Other hikers were still making their way up at that point (around 3:00pm) hoping the clouds would part. It’s unlikely that they were treated to the same amazing views we experienced in the morning and midday!
The History of Pico Grande: Madeira’s Royal Footpaths
The Royal Footpath, or Caminho Real, is part of Madeira’s network of historic trails. They were once the island’s main transport routes through the mountains before roads were built.
The stone and cobbled paths connected villages, and were used for transporting goods and mail by mule. The section close to Pico Grande, is a particularly well-preserved stretch. I love how the hike feels like a walk through history. A lot of the ancient stone pavers, walls, and bridges are still part of the present-day trail.
The Royal Footpaths were built in the 1800s, and used by mule caravans, clergy, merchants, and government officials. Often, in the upper classes, men would ride on horseback, while their wives reclined in hammocks, carried by other men.
Another historical marker along the way: Curral das Freiras. In 1566, this small village surrounded by mountains in the heart of the island became a refuge for nuns from the Santa Clara Convent, when pirates attacked Funchal.
Wrap: Why it’s Worth Hiking Pico Grande
Even if PR12 and Pico Grande weren’t originally on your Madeira “bucket list,” you should add them to your road trip itinerary.
The views are matched only by the more famous Pico do Areeiro (famous for watching the sunrise from above the clouds) which is far more crowded. I’d also add São Lourenço, a preserve on the eastern tip of Madeira, to the list.
You’ll have the views along the Pico Grande hike all to yourself, passing only a few small groups along your hike. Even at the peak, you’ll find only a few people enjoying the view from the rocks.
Also, I should mention: the trail is open year-round, but these photos were taken during a spring trip to Madeira in April/May.
