A Visit to Fort Benton: The Birthplace of Montana
Fort Benton, Montana, may look like a quiet town along the banks of the Missouri River today, but for a time, it was one of the most important places in the American West. This was once the farthest point steamboats could reach from St. Louis, earning it two nicknames:
- the “World’s Innermost Port”
- the “Birthplace of Montana”
In the mid-1800s, its levee bustled with traders, miners, soldiers, and fortune-seekers heading toward the Rocky Mountain frontier.
History is still a big part of modern day Fort Benton’s allure. The creation of the Fort Benton Historic District, a National Historic Landmark, preserves the riverfront and Front Street as a living testament to the town’s pivotal role in Westward expansion.
In addition to learning about the dog immortalized in bronze in the photo above (I’ll get to Shep in a bit 😊 ), visitors can:
- Walk and dine along the riverfront.
- Float and fish the Missouri River.
- Explore the original fort and other museums.
- Learn about Native American life.
- Raise a glass in an Old West saloon.
- Stay in Montana’s oldest continuously operating hotel.
Key Info on Fort Benton, MT
- Closest city & airport: Great Falls (40 miles)
- Population: 1,500
- Distance to Glacier National Park: 175 miles
The Birthplace of Montana
Fort Benton thrived as an economic powerhouse during the steamboat era, when goods from New Orleans and St. Louis were transported here for distribution into the American and Canadian West.
The town’s strategic position along the Missouri River made it a bustling port for prospectors, settlers, and traders, from the 1860s through the 1880s.
As the oldest settlement in the territory, Fort Benton earned the nickname “the Birthplace of Montana.”
The Grand Union Hotel
The Grand Union Hotel opened in 1882 on the banks of the Missouri, built in a Victorian style which earned it the nickname the “Waldorf of the West.”
It was considered the finest hotel in the West, between St. Louis and Seattle.
With the arrival of railroads in Helena and Great Falls, the Grand Union’s fortunes quickly reversed. The railroads diverted traffic away from the steamboats on the river, and the hotel was sold at a sheriff’s auction two years after it opened!
For a century, it went through other owners, other hard times, and other auctions. Finally, a multi-million dollar restoration brought it back to its glory in 1999, and new owners in 2022 are continuing that legacy of celebration and preservation.
Today, it remains Montana’s oldest operating hotel, offering unique accommodations and dining, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The Original Fort Benton
The original 1846 fort’s blockhouse, which is considered to be the oldest man-made structure in Montana, is open to the public. Guided tours are offered from late spring through early fall.
Here’s a brief timeline:
- 1846: Originally established as Fort Lewis, the fort served as the last fur-trading post on the Upper Missouri River, earning its reputation as the “World’s Innermost Port.” It was the furthest navigable point for steamboats on the Missouri River.
- 1850: The fort was renamed after Senator Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri.
- 1865: The fur trade collapsed, and the American Fur Company sold the fort. The military took over.
- 1870s: The military left late in the decade.
- By 1900: Only one original blockhouse remained intact.
You can walk inside that original blockhouse at the fort:
On a visit to the old fort, you’ll find artifacts from the fur trading years, the Native American tribes in the area, and much more.
They also have a trade store, warehouse, blacksmith shop, and carpenter shop setup.
One of the more eye-catching displays at the museum has nothing to do with Lewis and Clark or the old fort. It’s a grizzly bear with a story. It killed a man in the Bob Marshall Wilderness in the 1950s, and his family donated it to display.
Plus, as is the case with most spots you’ll visit in Montana, you’ll find friendly people to fill you in on history and present-day life.
Museums & Historic Sites in Town
Fort Benton’s rich past is preserved through several engaging museums & other interesting sites to check out:
Museum of the Northern Great Plains:
- A state museum dedicated to three generations of agricultural history, with extensive exhibition space and homestead-era scenes from the 1920s.
Museum of the Upper Missouri:
- This museum presents the region’s history from 1800–1900, emphasizing Fort Benton’s multi-faceted past as a trading post, military fort, and river port.
Missouri Breaks Interpretive Center:
- Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, this center interprets the cultural and natural story of the Upper Missouri River Breaks.
Decision Point:
- The Lewis and Clark Expedition faced a tough choice in 1805, as they arrived at the spot where the Missouri River splits into two forks. They scouted both options, and continued west toward the “Great Falls.”
- Today, Decision Point is part of the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument. Visitors can hike to an overlook above the confluence of the Marias and Missouri Rivers. It’s near the small town of Loma, off Highway 87.
St. Paul’s Episcopal Church
- St. Paul’s dates back 150 years, and is Montana’s oldest Episcopal church. The bishop who founded it preached his first sermon in Fort Benton at an abandoned saloon. The church came along a decade later, in 1880.
The Missouri River
The Missouri River is the reason Fort Benton exists.
In the mid-1800s, it was the farthest point steamboats could navigate from St. Louis, earning Fort Benton the nickname “the world’s innermost port.”
The river traffic came to an abrupt end, thanks to railroad construction. Still, more than a century later, the Missouri is still central to the town and the people who live there (and visit) for fishing, floating, and riverside walks.
Upper Missouri River Breaks
The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument protects one of the most scenic and remote stretches of the Missouri River.
Covering more than 375,000 acres, the landscape includes prairies, rugged cliffs, and abundant wildlife. The designation also preserves important cultural and historical sites, from Native Americans and early homesteaders.
Missouri River Outfitters
Missouri River Outfitters has a pretty big operation in Fort Benton, offering everything from rentals for self-guided floats to 4-day guided river adventures. They’ll drop you off and pick you up!
Among their many options:
- Day trip float to Carter or Wood Bottom: $75-$100
- 2-day Upper Missouri guided trip to the White Cliffs: $600
- 2-day Upper Missouri guided trip to the Montana Badlands: $900
- 4-day trip to the White Cliffs: $1100
- 4-day trip to the Montana Badlands: $1100
Free Bikes!
The Chouteau County Health Department has bicycles you can take (for free!) to ride along the river and around town.
Unfortunately, after a few were found damaged, they’ve had to restrict rentals to business hours. The bikes can be checked out at the:
- Downtown information center
- Chouteau County Library
- Chouteau County Health Dept.
Fort Benton Restaurants & Bars
Downtown Fort Benton is home to several great bars and restaurants. Among them:
The Union Grille
Inside the historic Grand Union Hotel, the chef and staff at the Union Grille serve a farm-to-table menu, which changes with the seasons.
If the weather’s nice, pick a spot on the patio, along the Missouri River.
Wake Cup Coffee House
This cafe is the perfect spot for breakfast and “Made in Montana” gifts.
They serve great coffee, plus almond French toast, omelets, and a delicious sweet potato skillet.
They’re also open for lunch, serving sweet potatoes and sandwiches.
There’s plenty of seating inside, plus a few patio sets out front if the weather’s nice.
Freeze Ice Cream
A longtime favorite, right across from the park, Freeze serves up summertime snacks.
Pour House
You’ll find a local crowd and a friendly crew serving drinks at this longtime mainstay bar in town.
The Palace Bar
Bartenders have been slinging drinks at the Palace since 1935.
In addition to the darts and TVs, a lot of the bar and interior have been around for most of the century.
Unbelievably, many of the drinks are just $3! It made this spicy Bloody Mary even more satisfying.
Shep: Fort Benton’s Famous Dog Tale
Fort Benton’s most touching memorial is to Shep, a faithful border collie whose story is widely known. There’s a reason his statue is front and center in town!
Shep waited five and a half years at the train station for the return of his deceased master (a sheepherder who passed in 1936).
Shep became a beloved local figure, basically living at the train station and greeting all arriving trains. He became a local celebrity, and was essentially adopted and cared for by the whole town.
His funeral was a community event with local schoolchildren excused and Boy Scouts as pallbearers. A makeshift memorial featuring the word “SHEP” in white stones marked his grave on a nearby bluff above town.
In 1994, a bronze statue crafted by Bob Scriver was installed in Shepherd’s Court, a riverside park across from the Grand Union Hotel. Shep is portrayed with paws on the rail, gazing down the track.
Visitors continue to stop by the statue, paying tribute to the dog who became a symbol of loyalty and the strong bond between people and animals.
When you’re at the Shep statue, make sure to pivot and grab a selfie from the camera mounted across the street! It’s the perfect souvenir from Fort Benton.
More Sites to See Near Fort Benton
While Fort Benton is in a rural part of Central Montana, there’s plenty to do in the area.
Hiking
Heading up into the Bears Paw Mountains northeast of Fort Benton (toward Havre), you’ll find a number of trails to explore.
Fishing
Driving 15 minutes north to Loma, you’ll be off-road and searching for a great fishing spot along a secluded part of the Missouri.
The Woodbottom Campground is there, too.
Bear Paw Ski Bowl
The mountains north of Fort Benton are home to a small ski resort, which is run by a group of local volunteers!
Talk about an “Only in Montana” experience!
Lift tickets for the rope tow are only $10, and lift tickets for the main runs are only $25!
Scenic Drive
If the weather’s good, take a scenic drive along Warrick Road. You’ll enter through Big Sandy, and drive through farmland, open ranches, and very pretty mountains.
Ferries on the Missouri River
Three historic ferries still operate on the Missouri River near Fort Benton, offering a unique—and free—way to cross the water.
I covered one of them sinking (from a load of cattle) in 2003 when I was reporting in Montana, but can’t remember which it was! I need to review my archives!
They’re seasonal, typically running from spring through fall depending on weather and ice conditions. It’s typically April – November.
- Virgelle Ferry: In service since 1913, the Virgelle Ferry has transported more than 30,000 vehicles across the river. To ride, simply ring the buzzer, and the operator will come down to load you and your car.
- Carter Ferry: In service since 1917, the Carter Ferry has been rebuilt twice, most recently in 2004. It can carry up to two passenger cars at a time and also serves as a state fishing and public access point to the river. To cross, honk your horn or use the phone near the ramp to alert the operator.
- Stafford–McClelland Ferry: Dating back to 1921, this ferry was originally privately owned before passing to the Stafford family and later to Chouteau County.
Fall Colors
The fall colors along the Missouri River are reason enough to visit Fort Benton!
More Montana Travel Info
Check out more of our posts on visiting beautiful Montana!
- Hikes Near Great Falls, MT
- Restaurants in Central Montana
- Montana Dinosaur Digs
- Getting Married at Glacier
